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9:54 am
September 4, 2008
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John Sargent
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| posts 39 |
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Hello, I noticed in looking at some of your pictures that the hose carrying hydrogen is connected to the air intake box, before the
filter. I installed one of these units (not yours) on my 2007 Honda Accord and connected the hydrogen hose to the air intake
hose between the engine block and the air filter box. Should I change it to the box? Also, I am having problems with: 1. engine
stalling between 2500-3000 rpm (manual gearbox) and 2. cruise control won't engage even though it is turned on. Any ideas
please? Thanks much, John
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10:32 am
September 4, 2008
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admin
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| posts 114 |
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The reason I used the filter housing is because is the steadiest place before the throttle body, I don't like to connect my units to vacuum.
About your other problems. Did all these issues happen after your hho installation?
Robert
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11:21 am
September 4, 2008
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John Sargent
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The box makes more sense to me anyway. And yes, they all began after the installation. I do have a city/highway
potentiometer installed, was careful to install it to the sensor wire of the map sensor, checked with multimeter to make sure
that I didn't go to the power or ground wire, but got the right one. It is installed correctly. Just put it in and finished it last
Monday, so haven't done too much driving on it yet, filled up last night to begin measuring mileage. Thanks for your quick
reply also!
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11:28 am
September 4, 2008
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admin
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| posts 114 |
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Let me have the engine size and the color of the wire that you cut.
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11:41 am
September 4, 2008
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John Sargent
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| posts 39 |
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2.4 liter and:
Here is the page I followed for the wiring for the map sensor. The 3rd picture down, far right column labeled “RSX-S” is where
the colors are that correspond to the ones on my sensor. Based on that, I connected the potentiometer to the center
green/red wire.
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12:05 pm
September 4, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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That's the correct wire. Just make sure that the map is not the frequency type, I was trying to read about that map sensor and couldn't determine which one was it.
To test the sensor, make sure that the voltage is steady, you can see it better with an analog voltmeter. If you see the needle jumping a lot then is frequency and can not be adjust with the enhancer.
Let me know
PS. Please don't paste anything in your post. Things got ugly there for a minute!
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12:43 pm
September 4, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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The needle of the multimeter was jumping around but I don't know if it is a frequency type or not. One other thing is that
the engine check light has come on and won't go off. Maybe I should disconnect the potentiometer, reconnect the map wire
to itself like it was originally and just run the unit without trying to adjust anything? What do you think about that?
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1:28 pm
September 4, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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Do that, put the map back to factory just to check if everything goes back to normal.
If needle was jumping, let say from 0v to 5v then it is frequency and the enhancer is not going to work there.
We going to have to look at the MAF, hopefully more luck there.
About running the hho unit with out adjustments, most likely the engine is going to run rich do to the extra oxygen produced by the generator. Try it and let me know the worse it can happen is that is going to waste more gas. 
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1:51 pm
September 4, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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OK, I will work on it tomorrow, can't get to it today. Thanks for your help and suggestions. On the MAF sensor, I know
nothing about that so would need your guidance in what to do and how to do it. Thanks again, Robert!
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10:33 am
September 5, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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When you're ready to start testing the MAF let me know.
Robert
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3:42 pm
September 5, 2008
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John Sargent
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admin said:
When you're ready to start testing the MAF let me know.
Robert
Hi Robert,
Disconnected the potentiometer wires from the map sensor, left the hho unit hooked up and working. Drove the car and noticed two things immediately: 1. got the cruise control back and 2. the car is no longer stalling and bucking at 2500-3000 rpm. The engine control light is still on but will probably go off after a few off/on cold starts.
So, I'm ready to try the MAF sensor. One thing though – I connected the HHO line between the MAF sensor (after it) and the MAP sensor (before it) in the air hose between the engine block and air filter box. I can move it if you think it best. Thanks again, John
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5:36 pm
September 5, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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Where are the hho lines in refference to the TBI?
There is one after and the other one before?
For the MAF, the wire that we need to check is the RED/GRN. Don't splice the wire just check the voltage like you did with the MAP and let me know.
PS. There two sensors in that case the MAF and the IAT.
Robert
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6:09 pm
September 5, 2008
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John Sargent
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I'm not sure what the TBI means or stands for. I'll take a pic and send it to you ok?
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7:49 pm
September 5, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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TBI (throttle body injection) in your case is just a throttle body, where the butterfly is. The reason I asked was because if both connections are before the TBI (No Vacuum at idle) then there is no difference if you install one before and the other one after the MAF.
Robert
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2:52 pm
September 6, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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Robert, I took two pictures of my motor and MAF sensor showing my installation and wiring colors on the MAF sensor, but can't figure out how to get them into the message block here, the image icon above doesn't work for me. Could you send me your email address and I will email them to you? Mine is JBSargent@gmail.com . Thanks, John
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9:19 pm
September 6, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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John,
Check the red/green wire and tell me if the volts are not jumping and the reading with the ignition on engine off and then the with the engine running.
Robert.
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10:23 pm
September 6, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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9:44 am
September 8, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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admin said:
John,
Check the red/green wire and tell me if the volts are not jumping and the reading with the ignition on engine off and then the with the engine running.
Robert.
Robert, here are the results of the multimeter check on the MAF sensor, red/green wire:
1. engine off = .22 volts
2. ignition on but engine NOT running = .01 volts
3. ignition on WITH engine running = .14 volts
4. for reference, Black/yellow wire (wire #1 in pic), engine running = 6.6 volts
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4:30 pm
September 8, 2008
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admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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That was not what I was expecting. Does it change when you accelerate the engine?
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7:54 pm
September 8, 2008
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John Sargent
Member
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| posts 39 |
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Robert,
red/green wire varied between .20 at idle, and .40 when accelerating; seemed to hold between those numbers.
Also, is the placement of the connector for the HHO hose from the bubbler okay in the air hose or should it be in the box?
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