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9:41 pm July 12, 2008
| chrisb
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| posts 43 |
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How do I test that the enhancer is working? We put everything on today…heres what happened….started it up and would not drop below 1500 rpms, tried dialing the knobs didnt do a thing…switched it from enhancer to factory-didnt do a thing…tried to go and throttle rpm dropped and no power whats so ever….help please
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9:49 pm July 12, 2008
| admin
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| posts 114 |
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Chris give me all the info on your vehicle.
Year, make, model, engine size and the cable that you cut and install the enhancer. I need as much info as possible for me to be able to help you.
Thanks
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1:03 am July 13, 2008
| chrisb
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| posts 43 |
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2000 honda civic, 1.6 litre, 4 cyl, had my mechanic friend splice into my MAF/MAP which he did right b/c I disconnected the enhancer and closed the loop on the wires again and my car was back to normal. When its hooked up, what voltage and what wire should I be checking? Let me know what to do, really discouraged right now
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1:22 pm July 13, 2008
| admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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Chris,
Make sure that the mechanic cut NOT splice the RED/GRN wire NOT the YEL/RED or the GRN/WHT and follow the diagram http://www.dtuls.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/3-wire-enhancer-diagram.jpg
The way to check the enhancer / Ground to ground, the MAP/MAF labeled wire to positive and a VDC meter in the ecm labeled wire you should be able to see the voltage adjustment with the meter.
Please let me know, I will check in again when I get to a computer.
Robert.
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11:52 pm July 13, 2008
| chrisb
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| posts 43 |
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we cut, not spliced he did everything diagram said….now what…?
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7:33 am July 14, 2008
| admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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Chris,
I'm not there with you, I need to know a voltage reading from the unit for me to diagnose the problem. Trust me I get this emails daily on how the unit is not working that is bad and all the time the unit is not connected properly that is why I make this forum, so I need more info don't give up.
Did you check the unit like I show you how?
If you did, What is the voltage coming out?
I want you to look and tell me the color of the wire that he cut.
If he cut the wire that sends the 5 volt reference to the map, that it is NOT the wire to cut.
Let me know
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7:14 pm July 18, 2008
| chrisb
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| posts 43 |
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After double checking my wiring connections I can say 100% that I have the enhancer is hooked up to the red/blk signal wire correctly. The yellow/red (5 volt reference feed from ECU) and green/wht wires have not been touched. The enhancer was installed by cutting the red/blk signal wire (coming out of the factory MAP sensor) and attaching that to the red lead of the enhancer. The green wire of the enhancer was connected to the wire that returns to the ECU thereby completing the circuit with the enhancer in between.
The dials on the enhancer do appear to effect the way the vehicle idles when moved. One thing I have noticed is the vehicle now idles 200-300 rpm higher than normal (with enhancer installed) and I have not been able to get it to idle back to the normal idle of approx 750-800. Also the “enhanced/factory” switch on the enhancer does not seem to work. When switched “off” it does not seem to switch off. My car continues to idle 200-300 rpm higher then it should. If I disconnect the red and green wires of the enhancer and connect the wires back to the factory set up my idle returns to normal.
Any ideas where to go from here?
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8:08 pm July 18, 2008
| admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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Put a VDC Meter to the wire that returns to the computer (Labeled ECM) and tell me what the reading is with it in factory setting and with enhanced setting with the knob first at 0 and then at 10 with the ignition on engine off.
Robert
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3:03 pm July 19, 2008
| chrisb
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Okay, something interesting happened today, I hooked the unit up without ‘connectors’ for the wires and just twisted them on…my observation tells me the unit works fine, b/c when at 0 it stalls out, but when at 10 runs normal. Here are my values to make sure:
When engine off:
City 0, enhanced= 1.30
City 10, enhanced= 2.82
City 0, factory =2.82
City 10, factory= 2.82
Hwy 0, enhanced= 1.30
Hwy 10, enhanced = 2.82
Hwy 0, factory=2.82
Hwy 10, factory=2.82
When engine running:
City 0, enhanced= stalls out cant get reading in time
City 10, enhanced=.84
City 0, factory= .84
City 10, factory= .83
Hwy 0, enhanced=stalls out cant get reading in time
Hwy 10, enhanced=.83
Hwy 0 factory=.83
Hwy 10 factory=.83
Do I have a vacuum leak that severe that it cant accelerate then?
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4:31 pm July 19, 2008
| admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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That's what I want to see, those value are good. As you can see 10 in the enhanced mode is the same as factory setting. In the factory or 10 in the enhanced setting can you accelerate?
Robert
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5:04 pm July 19, 2008
| chrisb
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I will let you know asap, I want to solder the wires together first b/c it seems that may have been the problem, the plastic connectors may have been bad.
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9:38 pm July 19, 2008
| chrisb
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| posts 43 |
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okay, I'm up and running! It seems that your enhancer had a cracked solder in it….guess that was the problem all along. We know this b/c I solder all the wiring together and it would work only when I would place the unit in certain position, and then if I turned it upsidedown it would cut out. Opened up the unit and when I would move some of the wiring and board in there it would make the idle go crazy and cut out sometimes. But anyway, I'm running the car at level 4.5-5 without any hesitation….seems quieter, a tiny bit more powerful, and smoother engine shifts. Yes I am SMILING right now, one happy dude over here. One question for you, if I'm running the knob at 5, does that mean that half the voltage is going to the fuel injectors and essentially spraying only half the fuel than at normal voltage (2.82)? Thanks.
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12:06 am July 20, 2008
| admin
Admin
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| posts 114 |
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The injector normally has a constant 12v wile the engine is running and the ECM control the time that the injector is open by providingthe ground, the longer the ECM keep the ground the longer the injector stays open therefore more gas (remember we're talking about milliseconds).
By lowering the voltage, we are tricking the ECM to think that the engine is running at a lower load, therefore cutting on the time that the ground is on.
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